We woke up mega early to surf at 7 am. There was only 3 of us left over that actually wanted to continue surfing. Half of the others came to watch and the other half slept. As we were getting into the water... my surf instructor touched the water with his hand and made the sign of the cross....I started getting worried and asked him if it was for luck? He laughed and said sure. Today we were paddling before we got up. Yesterday we simply were lying on the board with our back leg (while standing up) next to our knee so we had the correct foot placement for one foot and only needed to move the front foot forward. Sadly... the next day my arms were tired from paddling. I think its a sign that my month of not working out since my half marathon isn´t good for me. I had a pretty good day of surfing. The waves were even rougher today, but it was all good. I got up almost everytime and stayed on for a decent amount of time. Sometimes the waves were so little that i just hopped off because I was barely moving. Other times I rode it all the way to shore because they were going so fast. And othertimes I fell off because I lost my balance. I had an awesome time and I´m glad I did it. However... I do not know how anyone could actually paddle by themselves and even make it out to the bigger waves. Yet alone actually surf the real waves. I was just ¨surfing¨ on the baby white waves after they had already broken.
We came back for breakfast at around 8:30. We went back to the beach before lunch started. We were dumb enough to walk along the shoreline to where we swam/surfed during the rising tide. The waves rolled in and smashed against the wall to our right and drenched us. Sometimes we couldn´t move because we couldn´t see if there were rocks because the water was too high. So it was a huge struggle and we were smart enough to walk on the raised land on the way home, but we still had problems on the way back. None of us wore shoes and we burned our feet when we weren´t in the shade. So we ran from shaded spot to shaded spot. The sun was OOBER strong there. I got burned even though I put on sunscreen 3x and we were only there til 2. And I avoided the sun at all costs except for when I was surfing, in the ocean and walking back from the ocean. I ended up with pretty attractive sunburn lines. First my face was fried. Then when surfing I was wearing a Tshirt to protect myself from getting a rash from the board and that had a turtle neck piece. So I got burned on the sides of my neck and it stops where the turtle neck was. My arms got burned so I also have a sleeve mark for where the shirt stopped, however somehow my shoulders got burned so I have a white strip of about 4 inches of white arm where the Tshirt sleeve was. To top it off my chest and thighs and parts of my calves got burned. The only things that hurt badly though were my arms, my shoulders when I carried my backpack and my face. I was reminded another reason why I don´t like the beach sometimes. Sand gets EVERYWHERE. I had to Qtip my ears with 2 Qtips to get the sand out. Even 2 days later I am still finding small sand bits in my ears.
We left the hotel at 2:30 and got back at 7:30. It was just supposed to be a 4 hour drive back but a kid in the van was feeling sick and the windy and bumpy roads weren´t helping so we had to stop at least 5 times so he could throw up on the side of the road.
I got home safe and sound... except a little burned.
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